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I was thinking that there aren't as many DIY threads on here as there used to be - and I used to use them a ton, so even though this is pretty not-exciting, I figured I'd throw this up. Please do your own due diligence! I'm not a mechanic, I just wrench a lot...
Sorry about image orientation. They look fine until I link to them from ED - not sure whats up there.
I needed new rear pads and rotors on my 2014 Allroad. I picked up some rotors and pads from Natty. I went with Zimmerman on the rotors and TRW on the pads.
Here we go! The starting point:
It is recommended that you put your car on a charger when you retract the electronic brakes. I'm reading that guys do it without, but I have a charger, so might as well use it. The battery is in the trunk, but the charger connects to the positive and negative terminals up front.
Next, retract the park brakes. As these are electronic, I did this with my ODBEleven. I was lazy and just used the apps for this (I took advantage of the free credits you can earn, so didn't actually pay for the usage). The app explains the procedure fairly well.
Next, jack up car (support it safely), and remove the wheel:
With the wheel off, you can remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier. Its a 15mm and a 13mm wrench needed here. Also disconnect the electrical connector.
You can then pull off the caliper and pop out the old pads. Good idea to to support the calliper in one way or another as not to stress the brake line.
Next, pull out the screw holding on the rotor
Now I saw a video where a guy got the rotor out without removing the caliper carrier so I figured I'd try that... To remove rotor, give it a whack. I used a rubber mallet and it came free. It did not come out like the video, so, off with the caliper carrier. It is 2 18mm bolts, and the are pretty damn tight. Loosen (or remove) those and the rotor will come off.
New rotor goes on - Make sure the seating surface s clean and rust free. Re-insert the rotor screw (5Nm on that guy), and you can put the carrier back on. 100Nm +90° on those. I didn't get a full 90. This reads like a TTY bolt spec, but I'm reading on a few websites that service manual says clean and re-use? I'm not sure on this one.
Next, you can compress the caliper piston. I goofed here. Knowing the caliper piston face had the 3 notches, I got a new brake tool kit on Amazon to fit. It didn't fit well so I pulled out the dremmel and tweaked it...
And then - after all that - I realized there is no need to twist the stupid thing. The park brake is not reset by twisting in the piston, it is reset electronically, and we already did that. Sooo... you can push this piston straight in. No need to order and alter tools!!!
You can also pull the caliper carrier pins at this point. I like to check that they move well and that they are lubricated. I pulled them out (they are just held in by the rubber seal), wiped them off and applied some fresh lube. Syl-glyde (not to be confused with Astroglide) is what has always been recommended to me. Then pop them back in.
Now pop the new pads in and you should be able to put slide the caliper back over top. The caliper bolts are supposed to be replaced. They are only 35Nm on these, so not sure why they need replacing. Perhaps just because the new ones come with new Loc-tite?? Either way, my pads came with bolts, so I put in new ones.
Then wheels back on!
Lower the car, torque the wheels (I have 88ft lbs in my head for that).
Then back in the cab, connect to ODBEleven and close the park brake servos. After that, there is a test option to also run.
Disconnect battery charger
Go for a break-in drive. As with any brake work, do a couple slow speed stops before you hit the highway to make sure you didn't really screw something up! For bedding, Zimmerman says do 10 to 15 100km/h to 50km/hr slow-downs (3-5 seconds each), leaving some time for things to cool between each brake, then do anoter 10-15 100km/hr to 25km/hr brakes (5 seconds each), again, allowing things too cool for a couple minutes between. All the while, trying not to com to a complete stop or end up in a situation where you have to brake heavily. IMO, this is tedious, but well worth the time to avoid shaky rotors down the road. Shaky rotors are not generally warped, they just have inconsistent brake pad deposits on them. This is your chance to make sure those initial deposits go down smooth.
All done, broken in, with zinc coating now worn off:
I suppose that's about it!
Sorry about image orientation. They look fine until I link to them from ED - not sure whats up there.
I needed new rear pads and rotors on my 2014 Allroad. I picked up some rotors and pads from Natty. I went with Zimmerman on the rotors and TRW on the pads.
Here we go! The starting point:
It is recommended that you put your car on a charger when you retract the electronic brakes. I'm reading that guys do it without, but I have a charger, so might as well use it. The battery is in the trunk, but the charger connects to the positive and negative terminals up front.
Next, retract the park brakes. As these are electronic, I did this with my ODBEleven. I was lazy and just used the apps for this (I took advantage of the free credits you can earn, so didn't actually pay for the usage). The app explains the procedure fairly well.
Next, jack up car (support it safely), and remove the wheel:
With the wheel off, you can remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier. Its a 15mm and a 13mm wrench needed here. Also disconnect the electrical connector.
You can then pull off the caliper and pop out the old pads. Good idea to to support the calliper in one way or another as not to stress the brake line.
Next, pull out the screw holding on the rotor
Now I saw a video where a guy got the rotor out without removing the caliper carrier so I figured I'd try that... To remove rotor, give it a whack. I used a rubber mallet and it came free. It did not come out like the video, so, off with the caliper carrier. It is 2 18mm bolts, and the are pretty damn tight. Loosen (or remove) those and the rotor will come off.
New rotor goes on - Make sure the seating surface s clean and rust free. Re-insert the rotor screw (5Nm on that guy), and you can put the carrier back on. 100Nm +90° on those. I didn't get a full 90. This reads like a TTY bolt spec, but I'm reading on a few websites that service manual says clean and re-use? I'm not sure on this one.
Next, you can compress the caliper piston. I goofed here. Knowing the caliper piston face had the 3 notches, I got a new brake tool kit on Amazon to fit. It didn't fit well so I pulled out the dremmel and tweaked it...
And then - after all that - I realized there is no need to twist the stupid thing. The park brake is not reset by twisting in the piston, it is reset electronically, and we already did that. Sooo... you can push this piston straight in. No need to order and alter tools!!!
You can also pull the caliper carrier pins at this point. I like to check that they move well and that they are lubricated. I pulled them out (they are just held in by the rubber seal), wiped them off and applied some fresh lube. Syl-glyde (not to be confused with Astroglide) is what has always been recommended to me. Then pop them back in.
Now pop the new pads in and you should be able to put slide the caliper back over top. The caliper bolts are supposed to be replaced. They are only 35Nm on these, so not sure why they need replacing. Perhaps just because the new ones come with new Loc-tite?? Either way, my pads came with bolts, so I put in new ones.
Then wheels back on!
Lower the car, torque the wheels (I have 88ft lbs in my head for that).
Then back in the cab, connect to ODBEleven and close the park brake servos. After that, there is a test option to also run.
Disconnect battery charger
Go for a break-in drive. As with any brake work, do a couple slow speed stops before you hit the highway to make sure you didn't really screw something up! For bedding, Zimmerman says do 10 to 15 100km/h to 50km/hr slow-downs (3-5 seconds each), leaving some time for things to cool between each brake, then do anoter 10-15 100km/hr to 25km/hr brakes (5 seconds each), again, allowing things too cool for a couple minutes between. All the while, trying not to com to a complete stop or end up in a situation where you have to brake heavily. IMO, this is tedious, but well worth the time to avoid shaky rotors down the road. Shaky rotors are not generally warped, they just have inconsistent brake pad deposits on them. This is your chance to make sure those initial deposits go down smooth.
All done, broken in, with zinc coating now worn off:
I suppose that's about it!
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